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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Kolti Community: With Great Hope

Kolti Community: With Great Hope

Once, my college colleague had said to me years ago that if one hadn't been far western part of Nepal, s/he is not considered being seen real Nepal and it is much said statement in Nepalese context too. I was really interested to visit far western part of Nepal but my interest was not able to materialize yet. It was already late October 08, all the friends were busy at office and field, when my office director asked to visit to far western part as to mobilize community for community library construction at the area of Kolti, Bajura, then after, I started dreaming on situation of these areas. Different kind of scenes figured out as slideshow in front of me. For the same I planned to go there with my colleagues. My office colleague Puspa reserved air tickets from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj then to Kolti.


Kolti is a small valley located at Bajura district in far western region of Nepal. It can be accessible through rare flight; most probably one or two flights in a week from Nepaljung or Surkhet. And the flight can be sure if GOD granted to be clear the the weather of the area. If not, you would get an opportunity to have mountain flight by hugging into clouds and kissing to rocky enormous barren hill by challenging yourself to face and overcome the uncertain future. While flying in the sky rather you will get extreme pleasure in viewing things under you. The houses at the rural area are seemed like stars in the sky. After half an hour flight you will get near High Mountain in front of you. At that time you may get terrified that you are going to have big kiss with that mountain but the skillful pilot will take you to a small valley by turning at left. Soon you will get the land at Kolti Airport. Before landing the plane, without getting off you, a long time pending passengers and their relatives will cordon you as tigers do to its prey. Even without getting off the plane engine you have to get off and other passengers who have been there for a long time will rush in the plane and the plane instantly back to its destination.

On the other way you will reach to the area being Achham district passing in 2 days and one night in bus and two full days trekking.

Kolti is the business center of 11 more VDCs of the district and other area or adjoining districts Mugu, Kalikot and Humla. The number of international and national government organizations have made focus area of their works. But the socio-economic change of the area rarely seems to the rural people of the area.

People in Kolti area are found different than the people other area of Nepal. Even though it has deep impact of acculturation due to migration and mobility of outsiders from the different parts of Nepal to the area. Only one but obligatory means of seldom available transportation of plane has made the livelihood of the area very complex. People have very limited but barren and less fertile land makes them to find out the alternative to make their life-living. During 4 days stay at Kolti, only few female are found coming out of their homes rather they used to be busy in their own home doing households chores. After the completing our assigned task at Kolti, we had two full days time to spend at Kolti area in waiting of plane.

At the meantime along with my colleagues Deepak and Bhakta, we came out from the motel and had a look over the villages. On the way to visiting to eastern end we met two school going boys with carrying over loaded knapsack for 3 more days letting the heavy load at wall to rest along with their lean and tired body. Hardly can they communicate with us with barren throat with hoarse voice. I dared to talk with them but their pitiful conditions viz., salty smell, ragged clothes, never took bath body and stretched heavy shoes made me unspoken. I couldn't talk them anymore. Immediately their boss asked them to move forward like master does to his donkey.

Bearing in mind this event, my heart started to crumble recalling some strange scene from Kathmandu Valley. "I memorized the girls and boys wandering to their home to school and vice versa with own and public vehicles. I also remembered a unique episode while getting back in the evening to home from office near the corner of Ranibari where two youngsters in school dress with very rough speed in motorbike stopped in front of me, then got off and then boy took out two cigarettes. I could see the bright face of them with that light. I stared them pretending myself that I had lost something. After couple of cigarettes puff they started to hug very tightly then I couldn't see the forthcoming scenes. Then immediately I left the area". I compared these two episodes which I just visualized and next just I had seen in front of me. I felt very uncomfortable and unpleasant.
At the same time my friend asked me to move further. Then we moved further with heavy heart. On the way my friend Bhakta informed us about the socio-economic condition of the area and especially language used in the area. As a native Nepali speaker I considered myself a perfect user of Nepali language. But I couldn't understand the language used in that area perfectly. Bhakta used to translate into Common Nepali. So we could able to understand them. On the way we were lured with an activity. Almost fifteens girls with rhythm were busy in rice processing work under the open sky in a very unique way. We stopped and stayed nearby them. But they covered their face with their kerchief almost left the place. Then Bhakta asked to go on in their work in their own language then they did same. We asked them whether they went to school or not. We got reply from them that they had been but left school for long time before but could not break a single word. We moved further leaving them a big smile rather we received a pointing down their head in return. On the way we found two middle aged women quarrelling each other. They were doing that in the case one of their ox grazed mustard plant of next. When we appeared there they stopped. We could able to understand their body language but not the verbal.

We also visited to a village where we found people working their own household chores and children playing at near by ground. I was lured to children and started to talk with them. I could hardly understand them moreover I enjoyed with them by playing and teasing.

Then we got back to our bed where we were hospitalized by a local NGO i.e., Human Resource Center after supper as usual. It was getting cold. I arranged to sleep and lay down on the bed. My friend Deepak started to sketch some drawing with dim light and Bhakta left to meet his older friends. I couldn't asleep then I turned on part to another still I couldn't sleep. I was expecting sound sleep but not able to getting it. Actually we were deprived from television, radio, landline telephone and cell phone. And internet! It was no more possible. I was disconnected with my family and even the colleagues of office for 4-5 days. I felt gloomy. At the time of leaving my home to field, my younger kid had a fever and cough. Two more kids worried about their exam and my spouse was nearly out of pocket. I promised them to get back as soon as possible but it was not happening due to the uncertain flight.

Expecting my sound sleep, I talked with Deepak about children that found at day time. I argued him that READ has initiated the apparently significant initiation of Community Library at the area. Deepak shook his head for acceptance and focused to his own work. I visualized a beautiful picture of children and other people stepping towards into library and choosing the different materials and books at children library, high mobility at reading section, people at audio video section with high hope and enthusiasm. I really became happy and chuckle many times. I also remembered to those personalities who have contributed to establish library. I did salute them for being that happened. Oh, I was just visualizing actually dreaming. In fact, not only dream, READ has made it happen in various part of Asia especially in Nepal.

Next morning, I woke up early as usual days expecting plane arrival. We had already reserved for two tickets on the basis of plane arrival. We heard siren of plane arriving from Jumla in TOUCH flight. Whole Kolti bazzar woke up with high mobility. We instantly fixed up back pack and reached at airport. Immediately SITA Air came there and we rushed into plane. Then we flew saying bye to Kolti and back soon. When plane took higher and higher speed, "I focused on very panic and unpleasant scene. I had heard but not seen. Over sixties women injured by bear while collecting firewood at near by forest. She was badly injured at bear attack and nearly lost her life". But villagers brought her at Kolti two days ago then sending to Nepalgunj for further treatment after primary treatment at local health post. Her panic cry touched me very hurting. After the plane landed then she was carried to hospital.

On the way back to Kathmandu, I remembered all the things happened at Kolti. I also recall the sayings of college colleague years back. I really touched by scene observed the dropped out children, women attacked by bear carrying for treatment, awaiting travelers watching in the sky for plane, long queue for single call to their relatives really reflected real Nepal. The whole circumstances were teasing to those leaders and parties who committed for their hand to mouth, quite good schooling and health checkup but perhaps now they might have busy in various workshops, seminars at star hotel for the far western people. But I found Kolti is waiting for bright future with great hope.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Indra Dai...
glad to read your blog.
i hope kolti will not lose its hope from kind of person like you...

diken kumar giri
kolti-3 bajura

The Most Frightening Moment in My Life

Incident at Charaundi:
Letter to the Editor in Kantipur, 22 February 2005

Imagine a speeding bus on the highway. Now imagine someone opening fire on it. You only see it in the movies. And when it happens in real life, right in front of your eyes many are too shocked to react. In case the conflict is resolved, future generations will look back at incidents like these. But if it doesn't there will surely be many more incidents like what happened to us on 20 February at Charaundi. Around 45 to 50 of us were in the Machhapuchhre Yatayat bus bound for Pokhara from Kathmandu. The bus was in a long line of vehicles and along the way it felt like we were traversing a war zone. Army patrols everywhere, vehicles on fire by the roadside.

The journey was depressing and we were filled with fear and foreboding. We used to feel safe in the towns but when we reached Charaundi Bajar a gunman in combat fatigues opened fire at the driver of the bus. I can't describe in words the feeling that ran through me. Four days earlier I had travelled this same road and my bus had met with an accident between Dumre and Damauli. I had been physically and psychologically scarred by the accident and was desperate to get home to Pokhara and be reunited with my parents, wife and children. But here I was in a bus whose driver had been shot and was speeding along the highway at 50 kmph. There were people along the side of the road and ahead of us was a stream, river and a bridge. We all got down under our seats and prayed, convinced this was the last day of our lives. However agnostic you may be, when death stares at you, you remember God. But the bus did not collide with anything, it sped on along the highway. Slowly, we peeked at the driver's seat and saw someone driving the bus. There was someone listening to our prayers after all, God had sent a messenger to rescue us. He was Shyam Thapa of Pokhara's Ratna Chok returning home after a holiday in Kathmandu. He replaced the wounded driver, took control and drove us safely to Pokhara. In return, we could offer him little more than thanks for having given us a new life. Two other elderly passengers in the bus had also suffered bullet wounds and their blood filled the bus till we reached Mugling. From there, the army took the three to Kathmandu in a helicopter. We joined six other buses to be escorted into Pokhara which we reached by 8PM. On behalf of all the passengers, let me thank Shyam Thapa for saving our lives. If we do not respect the fundamental right to life of every Nepali citizen, there is no doubt this conflict will turn into a bloodbath. We wish to ask all sides to stop these irrational, inhuman acts and resolve the conflict peacefully through negotiations.
Indra Bahadur Bhujel, Lamjung

Kantipur, 23 February

Thanks to Indra Bhujel for sharing his harrowing tale of survival and bravery with the readers. In today's Nepal, facts are more dramatic than fiction and this is but one example. Reading the heartfelt letter, I was overcome with emotion and felt like I had experienced it myself. I have nothing but admiration for Shyam Thapa who took over the runaway bus from the wounded driver and saved the lives of everyone on board.
Kiran Khanal, Kathmandu

Indra Bahadur Bhujel's letter describes an event that is the country's conflict in a microcosm. Those who were responsible for opening fire on the bus should read the letter and think about what they have done by targeting unarmed innocent bus passengers. The true hero is Shyam Thapa who saved the lives of dozens of frightened passengers. A hero is someone who gives the gift of life to others, who shows uncommon valour in times of crisis and demands nothing in return. Shyam Thapa is one such hero. Thanks also to Bhujel for writing to tell us what happened since details of the event didn't make it to the news. Let's hope the perpetrators realise that this conflict can only be won by discretion and rationality. Just like Shyam Thapa saved everyone with his bravery, the warring sides must also give up violence and strive for morality, ethics and idealism to win the hearts and minds of the people.
Binita Aryal, Lajimpat